Basic drawing supplies for beginners: a checklist

October 15, 2026

The basic drawing supplies you need to get started fit in a pencil case: a few graphite pencils of different grades, a kneaded eraser and a precision eraser, a sharpener, a fineliner and a sketchbook with decent paper. With that you can practise for months; everything else is optional and best added gradually, as you discover what you enjoy.

In this guide you will find a practical checklist covering the essentials, the recommended extras and what can wait, so you neither overspend nor fall short.

Basic drawing supplies checklist

If you are in a hurry, this is the short list. Below I explain each item and why it is there.

• ✔ Graphite pencils: at least an HB, a 2B and a 4B (or a tin with a range of grades).
• ✔ Kneaded eraser for lightening and cleaning without damaging the paper.
• ✔ Precision eraser for details and highlights.
• ✔ Sharpener with a shavings container (or a craft knife if you fancy sharpening by hand).
• ✔ A sketchbook with reasonably heavy paper.
• ✔ A fineliner for inking and quick sketches.
• ○ Optional: coloured pencils, a blending stump and a folder to keep loose sheets.

Graphite pencils: the foundation of everything

Graphite pencils are graded by hardness. H-grade pencils are hard and leave a fine, light line, ideal for blocking in and technical drawing. B-grade pencils are soft and give richer blacks, perfect for shading. HB sits right in the middle.

To start with, you do not need twenty grades. With a 2H or H for blocking in, an HB for general linework and a 2B and 4B for shadows, you have the full range you will use in your first year. Even so, a complete set is handy because it lets you experiment and find out which grades you are most comfortable with.

Staedtler Mars Lumograph pencils are one of the most recommended options among fine art students and illustrators: an even line, a lead that does not break easily and a wide, well-graded range of hardnesses.

Tip: hold the pencil further from the tip when you do your initial block-in. It will force you to move your arm and draw with looser strokes.

Erasers: kneaded and precision

Erasing is part of drawing too. You need two types of eraser that do different jobs:

Kneaded eraser

This is a soft putty you can stretch and shape with your fingers. It does not erase by rubbing but by lifting graphite with light dabs, so it is perfect for lightening areas, softening shadows or removing construction lines without spoiling the paper. It also leaves no crumbs.

Precision eraser

For lifting highlights in an eye, cleaning up an edge or correcting a small detail, a pencil-style or retractable eraser is irreplaceable. The Tombow MONO Zero has a very fine tip and is refillable, so it lasts a long time.

The sketchbook: where you will practise

This is where many people go wrong: they buy a beautiful, expensive sketchbook and are then afraid to “ruin” it. To start with, the best choice is a sketchbook you can fill without guilt. Look for medium or heavyweight paper that can take erasing and some ink.

A pad such as the Canson XL Mix Media is a good starting option: it handles graphite, markers and even a little water, and comes in a convenient pad format for daily practice.

If you want to compare more options, there is a complete guide to the best sketchbooks for drawing depending on how you plan to use them.

Fineliner: for inking and sketching fearlessly

Drawing in ink from the start is a fantastic exercise: because you cannot erase, you learn to decide on a line before you draw it. A pigment-ink fineliner lets you ink your pencil drawings, do urban sketching or practise hatching.

Sakura Pigma Micron pens are a classic: the ink is waterproof once dry and they come in several tip sizes. A couple of sizes (one fine and one medium) are more than enough.

If you are curious about ink, our guide to the best markers for illustration explains the differences between fineliners, brush pens and alcohol markers.

Drawing supplies for beginners that can wait

Some things are tempting but you do not need them on day one. Add them when you have a specific reason:

• Coloured pencils: worthwhile once you can handle value (light and shadow) in graphite. If you fancy colour, a few good ones beat lots of cheap ones.
• Blending stumps: useful, but beginners tend to overuse them and drawings end up muddy. Learn to shade with the stroke itself first.
• Charcoal: very expressive for figure work and quick sketches, although it is very messy.
• Drawing tablet: worth it if you are interested in digital drawing, but the fundamentals are learnt just as well on paper.

Your drawing kit by level

You can see more options in our drawing supplies category, and if you need a method, in books to learn to draw you will find titles with guided exercises to get the most out of these supplies.

How to get the most out of your basic drawing supplies

The best supplies are the ones you use. A few habits that will help you far more than any purchase:

1. Draw a little every day, even if it is only ten minutes. Consistency beats occasional long sessions.
2. Make value scales with each pencil to really learn what black each one gives you.
3. Draw from life: your mug, your shoes, your hand. Everyday objects are the best models.
4. Date your drawings. In a few months you will be able to compare them and see your progress.

Frequently asked questions

What pencils do I need to start drawing?

With an HB, a 2B and a 4B you can do almost anything. Add an H for blocking in and you will have the full range most artists use day to day.

Is it better to buy a ready-made drawing kit?

All-in-one kits usually include lots of items of uneven quality. It is normally better value to put together your own kit with a few good pieces, like the ones on this list.

What paper is best for pencil drawing?

A paper with some tooth and a medium or heavy weight that can take erasing without breaking down. Mixed media or drawing pads are a safe option to start with.

Do I need a blending stump for shading?

It is not essential. At first it is better to learn to shade with the pencil stroke; a blending stump is an extra for softening gradients once you have mastered the technique.